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If your amp supports audio return channel, then use that over optical. From memory on the C1 you'd want to put your Amp on the TV's HDMI 2 input.
TLD:
ARIKIP:Thanks for the tips. I have only had a limited play with it, but I do think it is less intuitive than previous TVs I have owned, but with so many options that goes with the territory. Just knowing the terminology helps as 'Web OS' gives me a point of reference to base my research on, and I have found some useful YouTube videos already...
Congrats on the new TV. WEB OS is great once you get the hang of it...
Yeah, webOS divides opinions; personally, I absolutely hate it (as do the rest of my family) - despite having owned an LG TV for probably 18 months I still hate it and find it unintuitive to use. Give me the rudimentary interface of our Panasonic OLED any day. Others here on GZ rate it highly, so certainly YMMV!
As for sound: I get the attraction of moving to an Atmos set-up - I'm interested in doing this myself - but one approach could be to take it in stages: perhaps you could start with upgrading just your receiver. Similarly, moving to have at least your three front speakers from the same brand will probably make a big difference. I'm thinking a better-designed 5.1 system is still likely to provide a better listening experience than a potentially hodge-podge 5.1.4 or 5.1.2 system.
If you are keen on moving forward with Atmos, I don't think you'll find any decent speakers use Bluetooth due to its reliability, delay etc; you can get wireless kits (eg https://www.rapalloav.co.nz/product/svs-soundpath-wireless-audio-adapter-kit) but that'll come with the hassle of needing to get power to their location, which is probably harder than just running speaker cables. It's the cabling that's most me putting off making the upgrade, especially since so few recommend the up-firing type of speakers which would be so easy to install. One option I've considered is SVS's Prime Elevation speakers, which can be attached at the top of the wall (https://www.svsound.com/products/prime-elevation).
lxsw20:
If your amp supports audio return channel, then use that over optical. From memory on the C1 you'd want to put your Amp on the TV's HDMI 2 input.
OP reports his receiver is about 30 years old, so won't have HDMI let alone ARC...
TLD:
Thanks guys. Some good information there, and I am getting a handle on Atmos. It's funny how these things grow and expand into bigger projects. I started thinking that I could maybe use some old computer speakers to supplement the existing speakers, but then I thought there are vents in the ceiling for the heat pump, so she who must be obeyed shouldn't object to some flush mounted ceiling speakers. Would Harvey Norman have an Atmos demo I could use to impress my wife and persuade her it was a good idea? Why is it that blokes are into this stuff, but women not so much so?
Question: Do Atmos ceiling speakers connect by wire to the AV amp? I'm thinking Bluetooth would be problematic because ISTM you'd need to have access to the speakers to reconnect when they inevitably drop out. At the same time, while I could get away with flush mounted covers on the ceiling, running four pairs of cables down the wall would definitely be an ask too far.
I'm getting nervous about the COVID as well. If we have a lunch time report of cases spreading to the South Island, I'll be heading straight to town to make some purchases I have been holding off on.
I got my CX very early in the year and then like you wanted atmos. I got a Dolby atmos soundbar a month later and plugged into HDMI ARC and used the bypass feature on the TV. I also upgraded to an Apple TV 4k. Very happy and a nice uncluttered solution. FYI I did try a Sonos sound bar I had downstairs but the LG TV and Sonos weren't playing nicely. I ended up with an LG Atmos soundbar from Harvey Norman. I know there are better sound bars but bang for buck and for compatibility this is an easy option plus its lower profile and dosen't block the TV.
jonathan18:To show how long it is since I last set this up, I had to check the back of the receiver after reading this, and of course you are right, it has no HDMI inputs. The receiver is just has the one optical connection. It definitely makes sense to live with a new system before making big changes. I have already today improved the audio just by getting to grips with settings on the receiver, and I am still getting to grips with Atmos requirements, like how many channels the receiver needs to drive ceiling speakers, and even if subwoofers are included in the 5.2, 7.2 and 9.2 designations?
lxsw20:
If your amp supports audio return channel, then use that over optical. From memory on the C1 you'd want to put your Amp on the TV's HDMI 2 input.
OP reports his receiver is about 30 years old, so won't have HDMI let alone ARC...
As ever, YouTube has been useful for working out WebOS with lots of tips and tricks in how to organise the UI. I initially couldn't even create an LG account on the TV and kept getting an 'Invalid email' error message, so I gave up and used the Facebook login via the on screen QR Code.
Thanks for the help.
TLD:
I am still getting to grips with Atmos requirements, like how many channels the receiver needs to drive ceiling speakers, and even if subwoofers are included in the 5.2, 7.2 and 9.2 designations?
ShinyChrome's post on the previous page cover this:
ShinyChrome:
Side note: when you are shopping for AVRs, you want to keep in mind how many channels of atmos a receiver can process/amp. It usually advertised as a "point number" in conjunction with the other channels ie. 5.1.4 = 5 horizontal channels, 1 LFE channel, 4 height channels. Dolby has a range of configuration guides to show you what is possible.
Some receivers can also process more channels than they can amplify, so need an external amplifier to enable extra channel processing. If you are buying a receiver anyway, I would look at four height channels minimum, to get the "front-to-back" transition.
The 'LFE channel' he refers to above is 'low-frequency effects', ie the signal that would feed a subwoofer. It's the middle number of the three when a receiver is quoted as #.#.#, the first being the main channels and the last being the height channels, as per the example above.
If it's only comprised of two numbers it may or may not have height channels! 5.1 will be a setup like your current one, but you may see other amps like this one advertised as '11.2', which is essentially just the total number of supported full-frequency channels (and possibly amplification of these), but it will no doubt allow a range of set-ups for the use of those channels whether for additional zones, height channels, or even to bi-amp some of the main speakers.
If you want a single pair of height speakers you'll need 5.1.2; if you want two pairs you'll need 5.1.4 (and nine channels of amplification - either built-in or via external amp).
And one is talking pretty decent bucks to get a receiver that has the built-in amplification for nine channels - many will support seven and have amplification for the same; a number will support nine but only have amplification for seven. I'd been looking for one to support a 7.1.2 setup (I already have 7.1, and had thought I'd add a single pair of height speakers, but reading ShinyChrome's comment I made need to rethink that), and have been put off by the price! Kinda wished I'd done it at the start of last year before prices went crazy...
If you're in Blenheim, talk to Jason @ Harvey Norman - he's into his cinema kit.
If you make the trip over to Nelson at any point, go into The Audiophile or Beggs and talk to Dan or Tim respectively.
Both of those businesses have ATMOS demo rooms and they can help you persuade your better half of the benefits of adding more speakers to your room.
Panasonic JZ1000 or LG C1 65" ? Both around $3895
Both are the same price at the moment. Thinking of jumping the gun now.
keriboi:
Panasonic JZ1000 or LG C1 65" ? Both around $3895
Both are the same price at the moment. Thinking of jumping the gun now.
Much of a muchness, but you can't go wrong either way.
Both support the same HDMI 2.1 feature-set, although the C1 has 2 more HDMI 2.1 capable ports than the JZ1000. webOS is more polished and seems to be supported by LG a little bit more actively than Panasonic does with My Home Screen 6.0.
On the other hand, the JZ1000 supports HDR10+ as well as Dolby Vision IQ, if that matters
A bit will come down to the personal preference of how the OEM handles things like picture/motion processing etc.
For what it's worth, I would go for the JZ1000, since I think Panasonic do a better job on the processing side, and I also use an external box over the onboard TV OS.
Thanks. What external box do you use?
We will just be using Plex, Netflix, Disney + and Freeview.
Currently using the Smart vu box. I like that my tv is coming through the internet as we dont have a dish or aerial. Not sure is the tvs can run apps to do tv through the net?
I to prefer Panasonic picture over LG and Ive watched a lot of the C1 and own an older GZ1000. I also like the panasonic stand with swivel over the LG non-swivel base. They really are much of a muchness though
Panasonic 65GZ1000, Onkyo RZ730, Atmos 5.1.2, AppleTV 4K, Nest Mini's, PS5, PS3, MacbookPro, iPad Pro, Apple watch SE2, iPhone 15+
JPNZ:
I to prefer Panasonic picture over LG and Ive watched a lot of the C1 and own an older GZ1000. I also like the panasonic stand with swivel over the LG non-swivel base. They really are much of a muchness though
Oh Swivel is actually a good selling point.
keriboi:
Thanks. What external box do you use?
We will just be using Plex, Netflix, Disney + and Freeview.
Currently using the Smart vu box. I like that my tv is coming through the internet as we dont have a dish or aerial. Not sure is the tvs can run apps to do tv through the net?
Do you need a special HDMI cord when using the HDMI 2.1 port?
shelford:
Do you need a special HDMI cord when using the HDMI 2.1 port?
If you want to make use of the 2.1 features like 120Hz 4K then yes, you need a HDMI 2.1 compliant cable.
Panasonic 65GZ1000, Onkyo RZ730, Atmos 5.1.2, AppleTV 4K, Nest Mini's, PS5, PS3, MacbookPro, iPad Pro, Apple watch SE2, iPhone 15+
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